Cranberries and Daikon: perfect together

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Earlier in the week I stopped by the Fair Food Farmstand at Reading Terminal Market and noticed in passing that they had Daikon radish in stock.  Daikon is a Winter radish, so I wasn’t that surprised to see it there.  But beyond making kimchi and that time I make Daikon noodles, I really don’t eat a lot of Daikon radish.

Well…I may need to reconsider.  Thanks to the genius folks over at Ideas in Food, I am now salivating over the idea of cranberry-cured Daikon radish.  Since both Daikon radish and cranberries are in season right now, this is of serious interest to me.  Now, the people at Ideas in Food used a cranberry-miso condiment out of their pantry, but I can’t imagine it would be too difficult to approximate your own miso-cranberry paste, right?  The process for making these delicious looking radishes involves packing daikon and the cranberry-miso mix in a vacuum sealed bag and letting it cure for a week.  The result is this gorgeous radish.

All sorts of thoughts are racing through my head right now.  What a neat idea for a Thanksgiving salad, no?

Celeriac: fugly, hairy, and delicious!

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Up until last year, I had no idea what a celery root, aka celeriac, was.  It’s not something that my mother ever served up when I was a kid, and it’s not like they look so appetizing I had to pick one up immediately and try it.  Really, they’re dirty-looking, knobby, gnarly, and hairy.  But I’m happy to say that I overcame my bias against warty-looking food and tried it one day - and now it’s among my favorite vegetables.

This very ugly vegetable is a variety of celery that was bred to have a giant root.  It was first recorded as a food plant in 1623.  And while it’s widely used in Europe, it’s not something overly familiar to most Americans.  I introduced it to my in-laws last year on Thanksgiving by serving a mashed celery root and potato dish.  They are now dedicated fans of the celery root.

Some say it tastes like a combination of celery and parsley.  Some people say jicama.  I think it’s a little bit nutty and sweet.  Whatever the case, if you’ve not tried celery root, I heartily recommend you give it a go.  In addition to being a really nice addition to mashed potatoes, celery root has about 101 uses.  It can be made into a coleslaw-esque remoulade salad, a puree, a yummy soup, or even a hearty gratin.

As with all vegetables, there are some recipes involves celery root I’ve been dying to try.

• Black Bass with Grilled Celery Root and Ginger
• Celery Root Risotto with Pesto
• Celery Root Ravioli

I am particularly interested in a recipe for celery root and Asian pear salad, since both are in season and readily available right now.

Dark Days: Winter Vegetable Chowder

Saturday, December 15, 2007

I practically live on soup in the colder months.  That should be obvious - this is my second Dark Days Challenge meal of the week that was soup...and in truth, both were pots of soup, so I’ve been eating both soups all week.  The pot of soup I just made is my secret weapon soup - it’s always good and uses up whatever Winter vegetables you have on hand.

In my case, that was carrots, turnips, parsnips, and celery root (all picked up from the Fair Food Farmstand).  The recipe calls for four cups of any Winter vegetable.  I’m not sure beets would work, but any other root type of vegetable probably would.

The other thing I really like about this soup is that it gives me a chance to forage in my own back yard - it calls for five crushed juniper berries.  My juniper bushes are full of berries right now!

For all the ingredients in this soup, only a few aren’t local - the salt and pepper.  That’s it!  The parsley, thyme, and bay are from my garden, the vegetables were picked up at the farmstand (except the potatoes, which are leftovers from the last CSA share), the milk and butter are local, the flour is local Daisy flour, I used local raw milk cheddar, and the bread is from Le Bus.

2 c. milk
3 parsley branches
1/4 tsp dried thyme
2 bay leaves
1/2 onion, sliced
10 peppercorns, slightly crushed
5 juniper berries, slightly crushed
2 Tbsp butter
2 large leeks, chopped
4 c. chopped winter vegetables [I used turnips, celery root, and carrot
3 potatoes, peeled and chopped
2 small bay leaves
2 Tbsp chopped parsley
salt and pepper
2 Tbsp flour
slices of sourdough
shaved parmesan cheese

Put milk, parsley stems, thyme, 2 bay leaves, onion, peppercorns, and juniper berries in a saucepan; bring to a boil, remove from heat and let steep while cooking vegetables.

Melt butter in a soup pot over low heat.  Add veggies, 2 bay leaves, parsley, and two pinches of salt; cover and cook for two minutes.  Add flour; stir well.  Add five cups of water; boil.  Lower heat to simmer; cook 20-25 minutes until veggies are fork tender.  Strain milk into soup pot and toss the solids.  Season with salt and pepper.

Place a slice of bread in the bottom of a bowl, sprinkle with shaved parmesan, and ladle soup over bread and cheese.

A word of warning: this is some of the most filling soup ever!

Be it ever so humble, there’s nothing like a turnip

Friday, December 14, 2007

Turnips are plentiful ‘round these parts right now.  The farmer’s markets are just full of them!  Oddly, turnips suffer by reputation with many people.  They allege that turnips are woody, that they’re ugly, that they don’t taste good.  Stop maligning the turnips!  They are delicious and nutritious (high in fiber, Vitamin C, Vitamin B6, Folate, Calcium, Potassium and Copper), with an interesting history.

Did you know that turnips were originally used to make jack o’lanterns around Halloween?  In Ireland, turnips were hallowed out and lit inside to keep the demons and devils away. 

Despite all that, I’m really in it for the taste.  And, like I said, turnips are delicious - and not just my favorites, the Hakurei turnips.  Regular purple-topped varieties are really great, too!

So what can one do with the turnip, other than use it as a tool of the paranormal?  I like to use them in soup and I know lots of people who are crazy about them simply roasted, but there are lots of possibilities.  They can be pickled, made into custards, transformed into latkes, and even the greens can be used! 

There are two turnip recipes I’ve been dying to try: turnip souffle and warm turnip green dip.  I guess I’ll have to nip out the nearest farmer’s market later and pick up a mess of turnips!

 

Swiss Miss

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Naomi emailed me yesterday to ask if I had tried the Hendricks Farm Gruyere.  As it happens, I purchased a bit of it a few days ago and promptly forgot that it was in my refrigerator! 

The Gruyere from Hendricks (available at the Fair Food Farmstand) is a raw milk cheese that they describe as “a classic example of a European Swiss that is aged for over a year”.  While I would not be comfortable saying the Hendricks is a “classic example”, I would say that it’s good in its own right.  It does have a very strong Swiss flavor, vaguely nutty, a little salty. 

Hendricks also describes this cheese as “creamy”, which it definitely is not.  It has more of a crumbly texture that makes it more ideal for snacking.  It may or may not melt well, but the texture does not immediately scream ‘fondue’ to me.

There is a real issue with a few local cheesemakers naming their cheeses using place names.  Gruyere, in particular, is problematic.  In Switzerland, Gruyere cheese has earned Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée status.  If the cheese is made in France, let’s say, you can call it a ‘Gruyere-style’ cheese but you cannot call it ‘Gruyere’.  While I know the U.S. doesn’t follow EU law regarding this kind of stuff, I kind of feel like we should to cut down the confusion.  I know that Otterbein Acres recently renamed their ‘Romano’ to ‘Ewe’s Dream’, although I’m not sure whether it was for that particular reason.

Speaking of Swiss cheese, I recently tried another local variety - the Hope Springs Farm Baby Swiss (purchased from one the vendors at Clark Park Farm Market).  It’s another raw milk Swiss.  Unlike the Hendricks Gruyere, this really could be described as ‘creamy’, but the flavor is much more generic.  It’s not bad, mind you - it’s just not particularly outstanding.  It seems like it would melt really nicely, which is important if you’re looking for a fondue cheese or something like that.

Dark Days: ham and bean soup

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

The dried beans I purchased from Margerum’s last month have been hibernating in my kitchen.  In truth, I’ve been a little hesitant to use them.  It’s sort of like that whole thing with Elaine and her “spongeworthy” dilemma from Seinfeld - those dried beans are such a great (and not widely available) commodity that I start to second guess myself when I have a recipe idea.  Is that soup recipe spongeworthy?  Well, you know what I mean.  I just don’t want to waste locally grown dried beans on just any old recipe.

Finally, I got over myself.  I mean, they’re beans and they’re meant to be eaten.  And if I run out of beans and can’t find any more this Winter, I’ll just have to live with it and resolve to stock up for next year.  And then I grabbed up a slab of ham from Country Time Farm in Hamburg, PA and made ham and bean soup. 

It’s been a little warm this December to be true soup weather, but this really hit the spot!

1/2 lb of white beans (Margerum’s)
1 quarts of water
1.5 lb of smoked ham steak with a small pc. of bone, cubed and bone reserved (Country Time Farm)
1/2 cup of diced onions (alas, not local)
1 cup chopped celery (from my CSA share, frozen)
1/2 cup chopped carrots (Lancaster Farm Fresh)
2 cloves garlic, diced (Landisdale Farm)
Salt and pepper
chopped parsley (my garden, dried)

Soak the beans in cold water for about 2 hrs. Drain.

Place all ingredients in a big old soup pot, cover with water and simmer for about an hour and a half.  If you want a thicker soup, cook the beans for about an hour and then add the rest of the ingredients and simmer for another hour.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

I must admit, I’m kind of excited about the prospect of a Nor’easter coming through on Sunday.  It’s my fervent wish for us all to get snowed in for a couple of days.  We’ve got wood for the fireplace, and lots of soup!

Fresh Tofu Scrambler

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Every good vegetarian has a recipe for a tofu scramble tucked in her or his apron. It’s probably one of the very first dishes a new vegetarian learns to prepare, and puts to rest any misgivings one has about not liking tofu. My first introduction was about 17 years ago in a dinner lovingly prepared by mom using a Fantastic Foods mix and served on English muffins. A meal that is now one of my all-time comfort foods.

It’s one of those perfect, reliable eats - a dependable friend during meal planning. Always there for you, like lasagna or a stir fry, willing to use up any veggies you need to move out of the crisper; always a complete source of nutrition and whole foods; always willing to be brunch (with toast), dinner (in a tortilla), a snack or anything in between; and, thanks to Fresh Tofu, always ready to show of its local flavor.

One of my favorite discoveries during One Local Summer, Fresh Tofu has been supplying the east coast with organic tofu since 1984 and is distributed throughout New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. I purchase mine at a local natural food store (Plumsteadville Natural Foods), though Whole Foods carries it as well. It truly is a superior product, living up to its name and consistently giving great texture and taste to my favorite bean curd recipes. If the gourmet mecca that is Horizon’s uses Fresh Tofu, you can safely bank on it awesomeness. Besides, anyone with a flying block of tofu for a logo has got to pretty much rock, right?

Although creating and perfecting a great tofu scramble recipe is one of those must-experience kitchen intimacies, everyone needs a place to start. Vegan cookbook author extraordinaire, Isa Chandra Moskowitz’s, version is a great place to do so and provides the base for my recipe below. Her spice combination is so colorful and the flavor can’t be beat. If you’re not vegan or vegetarian, that shouldn’t stop you from honing your scramble skills. In fact, one of my favorite versions is a cilantro-heavy one made by an omnivore friend.

 
Tofu Scrambler
serves 4

1 pound organic Fresh Tofu, drained and pressed well
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium chopped onion
1 cup mushrooms, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup chopped kale (or other dark, leafy green)
1/2 cup chopped peppers, carrots, and/or any other veggie in the fridge
1/4 cup nutritional yeast
hot sauce to taste

spice blend:
3 teaspoons cumin
1 1/2 teaspoon thyme
2 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon tumeric
1 teaspoon salt

Heat oil in skillet over medium-high. Saute onions 3 minutes, until softened. Add mushrooms, saute 5 minutes more. Add garlic, saute 2 minutes more. Add spice blend and mix it up for 15 seconds or so. Crumble in tofu and mix well. Let cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding splashes of water if necessary to keep it from sticking too much.

Mix in kale and other vegetables, cover for five minutes, allowing steam to soften them. Stir in hot sauce to taste. Mix in nutritional yeast.

Serve with toast (Bakers on Broad Complet bread was used above) and fruit for breakfast, or in tortillas with guacamole and salsa for dinner.

Although this is my standard recipe, it’s really more of an outline. I can’t say I’ve actually ever made the same scrambler twice. Everyone seems to find their own special ingredient, whether it be a spice or veggie or secret sauce, so don’t be afraid to experiment!

Arrival of the Seed Savers Exchange 2008 Catalog

Monday, December 10, 2007

This is a big fun day for me every year. If you’ve never encountered it, you are in for a treat. And while I am trying to get off most catalog lists, this catalog is worth the paper/inks, etc.

Last summer, the first in several that I was able to have a garden again, I went bonkers for both seeds and plants. (Some turned out better than others, but it was a good learning experience.) Opening to the pepper section, how could you not want to order the “Sheepnose Pimento,” the “Bulgarian Carrot,” or the “Hinkelhatz.” Eggplant varieties called “Casper” (yup, it’s white), “Lao Purple Stripe,” and “Udumalapet” are pictured. There are drying beans and fresh beans, a beautiful spread of melons, herbs, flowers, and garlic. And there are 8 pages of tomatoes. Just try to resist.

A few years ago my stepsister and I (the same one who does organic ag for the Minnesota Dept. of Ag) visited the Seed Savers Heritage Farm in Decorah, Iowa, at the height of summer. Unbelievable. It’s there that they grow the seeds people send them in order to preserve the germ. The variety of colors and shapes blew me away.

But if you can’t visit in person, visit Seed Savers online.

Smooth operator

Everyone has been raving over the Toy Cow Creamery smoothies.  They’re made with milk from grass fed, hormone free cows and these smoothies are super thick! It’s more like drinking yogurt than drinking a yogurt smoothie.  I picked up a blueberry smoothie and was impressed - there are bits of blueberry in there and it has a nice fresh milk taste.

The Toy Cow Creamery is located in Williamsport, Pennsylvania.  That’s a little outside what can genuinely be called ‘local’ - Williamsport is at least a four hour drive from the Philly area. Still, if you’re in the mood for a good smoothie it’s good to support a small, local dairy in Pennsylvania.  The smoothies are available at the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market.

Help Wanted: Urban Farming

Sunday, December 09, 2007

What’s more local than food from a nearby farm?  Food from a farm a few blocks away.  This may be a bit out of the ordinary, but I thought it would be of interest to Farm to Philly readers.  A member of my CSA recently sent me an e-mail looking for participants for an urban farm in South Philly.  Here are the details…

I’m presently establishing a farm down in South Philly.  A non-profit down there owns a bunch of vacant lots they’d like to see something done on, and they like my idea.  My plan is for it to be a participatory thing, connected to the alternative currency I established.  I elaborate on the plan in a message to my alternative currency pals.  I’m telling you, one, to invite you to participate yourself if you want, and two, I thought you might be able to spread the word.

If you are interested, contact Fred Kittelman at .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) 

 

 

Eggs-travagant

Yesterday during my volunteer shift at the Fair Food Farmstand, I learned a couple of things about chickens - certain breeds are more sensitive than others to temperature.  The lovely blue eggs they sell can only be found in the Spring and Fall, for instance, because the chickens don’t like it when it’s too hot or too cold.  Prima donnas!  The Farmstand won’t be getting any of the great free range Meadow Run Farm eggs for a while, either - in the colder weather, the chickens are kept inside and don’t get to graze and don’t lay many eggs.

I was a little sad to hear it - I just used the last of my Meadow Run eggs a few days ago.  And then I got excited, because I was able to share those eggs with people I really like - members of my dragonboat team!  We had a sort of ancillary event the other day where we all had to bring some food, and my potluck dish was deviled eggs.

Deviled eggs sort of get a bad rap - they’re a little bit kitschy and people make fun of them.  The thing is, though, that I don’t know a single person who dislikes them.  I like to play around with deviled eggs to make them a little less boring, and I really like the recipe for the deviled eggs I took to the event - the yolks were mixed with boiled potato, minced smoked salmon, and green onion.  The potato changed the texture of the yolk quite a bit - the eggs were eggy without being too eggy.

1 dozen eggs
2 potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp lime juice
4 tsp whole-grain Dijon mustard
8 Tbsp minced smoked salmon
6 Tbsp finely chopped green onions

Boil the potato for about 15 minutes.  And while the potato is boiling, cover the eggs in water, throw in a bit of salt, and tsp. of vegetable oil, and bring to a boil.  Boil for ten minutes.  Immediately remove the eggs for the heat and transfer them to a bowl of cold water.  Peel the eggs, cut them in half lengthwise, and scoop out the yolk.

Combine the yolk and potato with a bit of salt and pepper, the oil, juice, and mustard.  Mash it all together really really well with a fork or a masher.  Throw in half of your minced salmon and green onions and stir to blend.  Load it all in a piping bag and pipe into the egg hollows.

Sprinkle the other half of the salmon and green onions over top.

The eggs, potato, and scallion were locally grown.

I hear the latest fad in deviled eggs is mixing the yolk with avocado.  Avocado can generally not be found locally, but it made me wonder what a deviled egg would taste like with the yolk mixed with butternut squash.  Perhaps one day I’ll spend the day making different deviled egg concoctions.  Let it never be said that eating locally grown food in the Winter is dull!

Dark Days: Teriyaki Chicken

Saturday, December 08, 2007

December is always such a busy month - things to do, people to see, Chriskwanzakah gifts to purchase and wrap.  Comfort food rules around my house this time of year, as you can tell from my other Dark Days Challenge meal this week.  My second meal is just as comforting and contains more locally grown chicken - chicken teriyaki stir fried with spaghetti squash. 

The spaghetti squash is a little something from one of my last CSA shares.  I roasted it, and packed the flesh into the freezer.  I’m so happy to have several servings of spaghetti squash available like that - it’s so delicious!  Beyond that, a little teriyaki sauce, a little cider vinegar, a pinch of sugar and salt.  A very nice, mostly locally grown meal!

Keepin’ It Simple

I guess it’s obvious that the December madness is upon us.  Despite my best efforts to avoid the consumerist frenzy this month, there still seem to be many additional items (fun and otherwise) on my to do list.  A little bit of quiet time in the kitchen is just what I need when I’m feeling overwhelmed.  But if there’s no time for that…well, I’m glad that I have some goodies in the freezer and fridge.  I crave comforting foods that are simple and nourishing.  Bring on the applesauce! I’ve cooked up big batches of applesauce over the past couple of weekends using my Lancaster bounty.  Lots of it went into my freezer. Always a satisfying feeling.

I keep it really simple and throw some diced apples in a heavy pot with a few inches of water and a teaspoon or two of cinnamon.  I used Jonamac apples from my half bushel and they do all the work for you.  With a little time and a couple of stirs of the wooden spoon, they melt into a nice slightly chunky texture.

To one batch, I added a couple of handfuls of the tart local cranberries I had leftover from Thanksgiving.  Somehow adding cranberries makes the applesauce seem less like kids’ food and more like the kind of thing that is just perfect with a maple scone on a weekend morning before the hustle and bustle starts.  Of course, applesauce is also the quintessential kid food.  Even though the Bean eats more like an adult foodie than a toddler, she’s always especially happy to have applesauce served up at any meal.  In fact, I’m about to warm some up to pour over our overnight oatmeal pancakes for breakfast. If I add copious amounts of coffee, I might be able to tackle the tree, some decorating and a little online holiday shopping.

Plentiful

Friday, December 07, 2007

Somehow I missed that New Oxford American Dictionary word of the year was recently declared “locavore”.

“The word ‘locavore’ shows how food-lovers can enjoy what they eat while still appreciating the impact they have on the environment,” said Ben Zimmer, editor for American dictionaries at Oxford University Press. “It’s significant in that it brings together eating and ecology in a new way.”

Well, that’s nice to hear.  Apparently, those of us who strive to find and eat locally grown food, support local farms, etc. have arrived.  Kookookachoo. 

Of course, there’s nothing like media attention to muddy the waters.  Philadelphia Inquirer writer Rick Nichols wrote a column full of confusion and angst over what being a locavore means.  Bemoaning the fact that the Ardmore Farmer’s Market has stands that sell things that aren’t local in the slightest, Nichols feels overwrought.  “Do you quit them for organic apples from Washington state? Or what if you’re into heritage turkeys?” he wonders. “Do you snub ones from a top-rate Kansas farmer who needs to ship nationally to maintain old breeds?”

Who thinks this hard about what they eat?  I’m as committed as the next person who supports the local foodshed, but I don’t have these existential crises.  For starters, non-organic isn’t necessarily worse for you than certified organic. You only need to understand a little bit about sustainable growing practices to know that many small farmers can’t afford to go certified organic…but those same small farmers are practicing uncertified organic and sustainable growing practices.  And I’ll take those any day over an organic apple grown in Washington on a corporate organic farm.  Nichols really misses the point - it’s not about organic or even eating the most ethically: it’s about knowing where you’re getting your food from.  It’s about knowing something about the farmers and knowing what goes into your food’s production. 

I’m sure that there are some people who are in it for the holier than thou bragging rights it can generate.  Most of us are in it to support local farmers, or maybe because we’re concerned with food safety.

And then, finally, Nichols closes with this:

Which is of some solace. It can be lonely being a locavore, validated in word, tested in deed: The times may be ripe, but the local produce isn’t.

The locavore’s dilemma? Winter.

Well…maybe if you’re a locavore with poor planning skills.  He’s obviously never met any of Farm to Philly writers - most of us have a freezer and pantry full of local produce that’s been put up for the Winter.  Winter, a dilemma?  Hardly!  There’s plenty of ripe local produce if you take the time to look - apples, squash, parsnips, cabbage, brussels sprouts, carrots, collards…broccoli and cauliflower….celery and potatoes…mushrooms…spinach and leeks!  I would call that plentiful.  And when combined with what’s been put up in my freezer and pantry, I’m eating as well as I would in Summer.  And I’m certainly not eating any less local foods.

Thanks to reader Lauren for the tip on the editorial!

apple-maple jam

Tuesday, December 04, 2007

As I mentioned in my last market report, I bought twenty pounds of apples last month.  I’m still working my way through them as fresh apples or baked in crisps, but part of the reason I got so many was to preserve some of them.  On Sunday, I turned nine of them into apple-maple jam. 

Apple-Maple Jam

9 medium apples, chopped (3-4qts)
2.5 c turbinado sugar
1 t cinnamon
1/2 t allspice
1/2 t nutmeg
1 c maple syrup

This made 4 1/4 pints of very thick jam.

I cooked the apples, sugar, and spices until the apples were soft (adding them gradually, as they squished enough to fit more in the 3qt pot), then pureed them, added the maple syrup, and then canned the result in a boiling water bath.  The sugar, I think, is only important if you want to have chunks of apple suspended in jelly—I didn’t peel the apples, and I wanted a spreadable jam, so I could probably have left it out.  (If you do want apples in jelly, you may well want something closer to the 6 c of sugar called for in the original recipe.)  Alas, the only local ingredients in my jam were the apples themselves, but you could easily use local syrup, skip the sugar, and get only your spices from far away.